Monday, October 12, 2009

Mystic Rhythms

"...The more we think we know about
The greater the unknown
We suspend our disbelief, And we are not alone...
We sometimes catch a window, A glimpse of whats beyond
Was it just imagination Stringing us along?
More things than are dreamed about, Unseen and unexplained
We suspend our disbelief, And we are entertained..."

RUSH, Mystic Rhythms 1985
What, didn't anything front-page-worthy happen on Saturday October 10th, leaving the paper scrambling for something to fill the void?
 Kudos to the Press Democrat for giving away yet another front page spread - this time to Biodynamics.

Yet more free press for the Benzigers, and another shot of their comments as fragments left hanging for the public to absorb, without much in the way of explantion of the oddities they practice, and why or why not those practices should work. I do feel Guy Kovner was trying to write something that presented both sides...but it doesn't seem he understood the foundations of Biodynamics himself, or perhaps the editors didn't give him enough space to present it...
More likely it was the first. I doubt many people wold suffer through Steiner's Agriculture lectures if they didn't have to...I almost didn't finish it, and I had reason to read the damned thing! Maybe this reporter wasn't given enough time to research fully.

Shall I go into the multitude of errors he made in his farming philosophy? Maybe, but what I really want to focus on is the way wineries which practice this "spiritual science" -even though it has nothing to do with science- can capitalize on the articles it generates. Witness the quote by Mike Benziger:
“I can't look you in the eye and say it's better,” said Mike Benziger, head of the family-owned winery. “I can say it's different.”
Making biodynamic wine isn't about “technical perfection,” Benziger said. “It's about an authentic vintage, an authentic place.”
Notice that?
See the way in which he disarms you and "doesn't" throw mud in your eye, but then throws mud in your eye at the same time?
It's NOT about it being better...but it IS about BEING BETTER than the rest. The slight is that everything else is NOT AN AUTHENTIC vintage, and doesn't REPRESENT an authentic place

Answer me this Mike Benziger....if Biodynamics is so great, why is it you only bottle up ~30,000 gallons as BD certified and not ALL your production?
Is it because you don't have to risk your entire production volume this way, yet still get all the talking points?

Beware!
Large companies are starting to take notice of the BD movement, and are looking to remove your talking points! For example, I have heard from several sources within Kendall-Jackson that they (one last year, and again this harvest) are now starting to farm using Biodynamic methods. I doubt they will convert their whole vineyard empire over to the practice, or even to get the certification, but undoubtedly they will have a few blocks they can use as a talking point. There are a few articles out in the past about how the Jackson empire had approached Biodynamics years ago [Alice Feiring], but passed on the idea of implementing it at the time.

Hopefully this move by large companies will sully the image enough for the "true believers" to abandon their odd ideas...
Read the article by Smith & Barquín at Fine Wine Magazine.com listing well thought out criticism of the movement, and link here to follow up on it with the comments.
In the meantime, I'll leave you with my past posts about the subject [link here].

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Monday, June 08, 2009

Nobody "makes" Wine Anymore

Have you noticed how nobody "makes" anything anymore?
Take a look at the picture of Heinz Ketchup, and pay particular attention to the "Grown Not Made*" slogan  below the tomato:

Compare these two statements:
      "Wine is made in the vineyard"
      "Ketchup is grown, not made"
Say, where in either of those statements is there room for the person who takes the ripe fruit and processes it into the end product that graces your tables? I can see an argument for the farmer being present in either case, but not anyone else, and this is not right.
Originally I had contemplated posting on the "Death of the Rock Star Winemakers", a breed which has declined over the past 5~7 years. Sure, there are still many big names out there, but the frequency you used to hear about all but the top hoity-toity "rock stars" has all but died off. And while I feel this is still a valid topic I might get around to in the future, one of the reasons winemakers roles are being downplayed actually eclipses the topic completely. But I do see the point, after all who needs a winemaker if the fruit has done all the work already?
I was going to start by mentioning how the last few years have had more involvement from owners, with winemakers public exposure as "rock stars" diminishing. The main reasons were the need of the owners to make sure that if/when a winemaker left their brand, that the "loyal" following that had migrated there with them didn't then leave. But I think the real reason is that winemakers as a whole are being displaced by the rush back to authenticity and naturalness - by the need to be greener than the next guy - even to the point that we remove ourselves from the equation entirely...and I mean ALL of ourselves, not just winemakers!
And that is why something as common and kitsch as ketchup is now modeling itself as having been dropped into the bottle by Mother Nature herself, without any interference from mankind at all!
The "authenticity" debate maximizes value of non-intervention while minimizing role of the winemaker and cellar staff. This also allows the owners of the brand to maintain the focus of the trade upon what THEIR vision is, and not that of the winemaker (who was making sure the fruit was harvested properly, fermented correctly, then blended, filtered and bottled correctly). We see the people who do all the heavy lifting get the shaft in the PR/Media, while the brand continues forward as an unblemished rose or virgin snowbank, neither of which had been contaminated by the Human hand.
But WE ARE part of Nature...and we DO need to make decisions about how fruit is handled, and what the final taste should be...so why can't we acknowledge that? 
I'll acknowledge here that we are the only species which has developed the earth (for both good and ill) to the extent it's been changed...
But why is it that Mankind isn't allowed to "make" wines anymore? Why is it preferable that "we" haven't made anything? Why does "manipulate", which foremost means "to handle, manage, or use, especially with skill in some process of treatment or performance", get used in nothing more than its negative connotations when referring to foodstuffs - and wines in particular? Certainly there are reasons people have gone this route, and there have been numerous times in the past that fraud has occurred - and no doubt it will happen again in the future, and not just with the highest priced bottles...but I fear we've gone a bit overboard in our reaction. Listen carefully to all the winery representatives talk up their wines at the next big tasting you go to. Likely that the majority of what you hear will be about how fantastic the vineyards are and how "the wine is made in the vineyard"...
I know many people who read this blog will have gotten tired of hearing this explanation, but much of this is rooted in the 17th century Romanticism and the back-to-nature movement it spawned. However, it now goes to lengths that dismiss many natural treatments which were in play back then as well as now: isinglass, egg whites, milk protein (casein) are all now somewhat vilified in the popular wine press as "manipulation" (only negative connotation). 
Filtration, too, is a victim of the authenticity drive, and is spun by many producers as a evil process which robs the wine of fruitiness, structure, or both. Frankly I don't let anything I work on go out the door without filtration - it's your last chance to secure the wine from subsequent spoilage of microbes present in the wine. And that means better consistency for the consumer, which is never a bad thing. Does filtration diminish your wines somehow? Not in my experience. But I do take good care to educate all the staff on how to do it properly, as its when its done wrong that you can screw up your wine. If everyone is vigilant and well versed on how to get it done, then there shouldn't be any problem - though I'll acknowledge that there's quite a spectrum of opinion on this subject, and you'll no doubt hear from well educated people on the other side of that argument as well.
They'll have different experiences, and I can respect that and their different opinions here.
But I still don't think you can separate Man from Wine. 
Wine just doesn't exist without willfull interference from mankind, any less than ketchup could exist without mankind. Raise a glass in honor of your favorite cellar, and remember ALL the people it takes to bring that product to your table - from the vineyard through to the grocery store.

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Wednesday, April 22, 2009

an EARTH DAY present from Randall Graham

...[f]or Mr. Grahm, that means owning a vineyard, embracing biodynamic viticulture and farming without irrigation, as the best Old World vineyards are farmed. “Dry farming is absolutely crucial,” he said. “It’s more important than anything — biodynamics, schmiodynamics.”
And...
“I actively resorted to all manner of marketing tricks,” [Randall Graham] said, as if standing before the congregation to confess.
 "Biodynamics, schmiodynamics....”!
"...marketing tricks..." !!

For anyone who's been asleep at the wheel these past 10 years, the truth is now out in the open! Now Randall implies that perhaps the entire thing (biodynamics) was a mistake, and he should've been paying attention to the amount of rainfall his vineyards get and how deep the local aquifers are instead of stuffing cow horns with "poo".
Well I saw that for what it was!
Simultaneously sad and funny to see, but here's the story: a man who set himself up as the advocate of this preposterous method of agriculture for marketing purposes is now backing away from his previous positions to focus on his NEW MARKETING position: Dry Farming!
Unfortunately, Randall hasn't given up all his old ways...
He seems to be relying on a geomancer to evaluate his newest vineyard acquisition's water potential, rather than hiring a certified hydrologist or geologist.
C'mon, Randall!  Make a clean break and purge your soul...
...you're so close to redemption!

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Friday, April 17, 2009

A voice of Reason in these dark times...

 
I just got through reading his letter to the editors of the Santa Rosa Press-Democrat, somewhat taking them to task for the nonsensical video of Mike Benziger on the PD site touting his Biodynamic philosophy. I've clipped the letter he wrote here, as well as provide the link for the PD letters for Fri April 17th...
The best lines have to be...
"...People today make all sorts of assertions with little or no connection to the truth, and biodynamics is no different. Show me the scientific experiments that prove biodynamic soils and vines are healthier and biodynamic wines are better.
... in my opinion, biodynamics is a hoax and deserves the same level of respect we give to witchcraft. On Earth Day or another day, animal sacrifices (a biodynamic farming practice) should not be an acceptable practice of modern day agriculture or our society."
Damn!
That's poetry. And my heart is warmed that people out there are starting to take notice of this mis-represented farming practice which wants everyone to think it naught but "peasant agriculture".......

A BIG thanks to Mr.Smith for his letter of reason!

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Tuesday, April 14, 2009

Californian sweet wine: a continued debate

I had a conversation this past weekend with a few guests about the popularity of sweet white wines, and heard comments about how California is responsible for the sad world-wide trend towards producing "sweet" (off-dry) white wines. Californian chardonnay in particular was vilified...
I should lay a little background for this topic before I go into it.
Most people in the industry consider a wine "dry" (meaning it has completed the conversion of sugars into alcohol) when the level of sugar falls below 2~3 grams per liter. There's a little bit left over in the wine, but at this level it usually doesn't represent an amount which spoilage organisms can really exploit, and the yeasts present which did the work are tired and have pretty much stressed themselves out with the alcohol they've produced and are dying off. Also, the maximal amount of alcohol has arguably been produced, and alcohol has a preservative effect. At this point most human palates can't pick up notes of sweetness in the wine, and the aroma, acid and alcohol components of the wine drive the overall tasting experience. Alcohol itself can add a little sweetness to the profile of a wine, but it also contributes a pungency or "heat" to the experience as the concentration increases (think about the last time you had a shot of vodka...there's a LOT of heat, but also a slight sweetness to the finish). If a wine is a little too acidic, or the body is a bit flat or hollow, a small amount of sugar can be blended in to help fill out these perceived shortcomings, without making the wine "sweet" to the taster. This happens because our palates have been selected to prefer sweetness (think of sugar as a natural indicator that fruits are ripe) over almost every other perception. And even though the levels are below the level where our brains say "this is sweet" (threshold level of identification), we still pick up a signal saying "this is good, but I'm not exactly sure why" (the 'je ne sais quoi' effect at the level of perception, but below that of identification). This is akin to seeing a light moving on the horizon, but we're unable make out exactly what it is: we have met the level of perception, but not that of identification. As time goes by, we look again and see the light has come closer and the object with the light is a ship (level of identification).
Anyway, here's a quick sampling of my conversation at that point:
"Isn't that manipulation?"  Sure it is.
"Isn't that a bad thing?"  That depends now, doesn't it...on the level it's taken to and the final wine desired.
"Then the wine doesn't represent what Nature intended, does it?" (?) Say what...? Remember, Nature WANTS to make vinegar, not wine...WINE is never what Nature intended grapes to become, not that Nature ever 'wants' or 'intends' anything.
"Well, then, you're an interventionist!"  Yes, and back to my point - all WINE is a creation of/by intentional intervention in the natural process when the juice gets to a point where we have alcohol and aromas we like, with a balanced level of acidity.
"But organic wine that doesn't have sulfites..."  Doesn't matter. The process is still stopped by human activity at the wine stage before it becomes vinegar.
"But we're talking about sugar in the wine - how do you get a wine to stop with sugar still in it?"  The real question many times is how do I get my wine to finish fermenting(!) not how do I stop it...many wines stop by themselves before the sugar is finished. Weak yeast strains, "natural yeasts", fruit with minor nutrient deficiencies, excessive temperature spikes (high or low) during fermentation can all be factors...wines can be centrifuged to remove yeasts, and sulfur can be added to shock them into submission.
"How is sugar added to a dry wine? Are we talking about beet sugar again?"  No, this is not like chaptalization, where in the EU beet sugar (being phased out in favor of concentrated grape must) can be added before fermentation to change the final alcohol level of the wine. What we are talking about is more like taking a few of the lots you made which haven't finished their sugar and blending them back into the dry wines to balance body, acidity, etc. If you're one of the lucky ones whom had every fermentation finish to dryness, then you can add concentrated grape must to adjust the final sugar level.
Some producers even select lots of grapes prior to harvest which they then chill and/or centrifuge the natural yeasts and solids out of before they hold it in tanks through the harvest. It may or may not get a hefty wallop of sulfur at this point to help ensure that fermentation doesn't start by itself. After everything else has finished its fermentation, this "stopped" juice can be added back in small quantities to adjust the profile of the wine. The Germans have a name for the wines created by this process: süss-reserve [actually süß-reserve], which literally means sweet reserve. Yes...juices intentionally held (reserved) without fermenting so the sugar can be blended back later. And they have added them for years to make sure the balance of the wine is where they want it.
So is that manipulation? Yes.
Does it produce fantastic wines? Yup, youbetchya!
Is it some new-fangled crap-tastic method to cheat Nature out of what it intended? NO...and while we're at it, let's stop being so g**damned anthropomorphic by ascribing "intentions" to Nature...
Nature doesn't give a damn about what our desires are, and has none of its' own.
PS to Uncle Lou: No, I reject that most California Chards are too floral and sweet to drink, and are best used as weed-killers and ant baits...though I grant you have a different palate than mine...

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Friday, April 10, 2009

A good show (dinner not included)...

I found this on the web while looking up a few points for this post:
"You do not 'believe' in science. Science is not a BELIEF SYSTEM. Science is a method of inquiry. If you do not know what deduction and induction are you need to LOOK THEM UP. Don't try to burn Galileo, you villianous Heathen!"
         - Angry Pontiff
All the same, put this on your calendar:
Friday April 24th, 7 PM @ the Jackson Theater, 4400 Day School Place, Santa Rosa...keep critical thinking points like that above in mind while attending...
Why?
Because this location is hosting an evening of Biodynamic Q&A put to a trio of proponents [link]: Alan York (BD consultant), Paul Dolan (winegrower), and Jeremy Fox (chef @ Ubuntu...uhhhm, so how's he fit into this exactly?). Tickets are $20 in advance/ $25 at the door, and the proceeds go to the Sonoma Co. Wine Library, which is housed at the public library in Healdsburg. This is the type of theater which is most amusing, and my suggestion to you all is to read up on a bit of the BioD nonsense and then ask the hard questions of those assembled on stage, to wit: "exactly what forces are those that we are 'concentrating' by using these BioD preparations?"...
After all, these are the 'experts' - hell, York charges MONEY for those types of answers everyday! - and if they don't have clear answers to these questions, or if they conflict with each other, then we can draw one of three conclusions~
  1. they don't have a clue...
  2. they know, but don't want us to know...
  3. there is no answer because there really aren't any forces being concentrated, and to say such would expose the farce that biodynamics is.
 Personally, after about a decade of trying to fathom what-the-Hell BioD actually is doing in the vineyard by talking with growers & proponents, I believe the answer is a combination of 1 & 3. You can witness this firsthand by viewing the video below of Steve Beckmen of Santa Barbara "explaining" what they do at his vineyard...and "why"... 
This last part is the most telling, due to his rambling answers and lack of anything concrete. How someone can produce a video where the "expert" being talked to can stumble when trying to relate what "forces" are being "excluded" or "enhanced" is beyond me. Why anyone would then post that video w/o cleaning it up first to make sure it made sense is even further beyond me (c'mon! you've got all the time on your hands to make it as authoritative as possible, and ensure it flows smoothly...why not do a couple of takes and get it right?).
A few high points of the video are: 
  • Steve telling us about how his magic plywood box (lined with peat) keeps out unwanted "energies" from his BioD concoctions (sadly, those "energies" remain unnamed)...
  • relating the "art" of dynamization, and his confession that although hand stirring is best, he uses a machine to do the job so he doesn't have to hire 8 people to get the same job done...
  • that they CAN'T get the job done by following the biodynamic calendar, because you only have 2 days out of every 8 where the system allows for the work you need to do to actually get done - so they wrap the work onto other "similar" types of days ...
  • ...and many more!
And look here, you can actually see the potent cosmic-type energies escaping the box when it's opened!
Well, we're back to the beginning again, just like the snake eating its own tail, no closer to the real answers about what this system is really trying to do, or better yet "how it gets those things done". And why when people ignore the doctrines of that system it continues to deliver the wanted results. As I've said before - if you can delete or ignore certain parts of the system, did they really contribute to the overall results in the first place? 
Did any of it ever contribute to the results??
Hmm. Reminds me of a post from back in March '06 where a writer had published all sorts of nonsense re BioD and their silly calendars (don't forget to plant your potatoes this coming Monday after Easter...unless you're Greek Orthodox, when the best day will be the Monday following THEIR Easter Sunday...).

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Tuesday, March 11, 2008

March...a time for vigilance

Well, I guess now there's no arguing that Spring is here.

With daytime temps hitting the mid 70's, and lows in the high 30's, the trees and flowers have started blooming across the countryside. The air is thick with the smell of all the flowers, and even those dormant old vines are starting to look as if they may bust forth from their winter sleep very soon. Insects have reawakened, and have begun to buzz about the various nectar rich flowers.

Now I may seem a bit alarmist, but....this IS the time of year that we've seen the first attempted incursions of some nasty pests into our area, and the glassy-winged sharpshooter (GWSS) is the primary concern. The "normal" route of attack is for the pesky buggers to try to hitch a ride on ornamental shrub shipments which are coming up from southern California to various nursery's here in the north bay. These days we also have to be vigilant for the light brown apple moth, as well as the transporting of the grapevine mealybug from place to place.

As happy as I may be to be out of Ol' Man Winters' grasp, I would've preferred to have a few days of hard frost to make my life easier as far as pest management is concerned. And although we did have some cold weather -as well as a little more snow on the ridges than usual- it never really seemed to get that cold, or cold-enough to put an icy foot on the pests' little necks....
Even though an occasional late March frost (or Alaskan cold front) isn't out of the question, it's hard to envision one happening when the daytime temps are as high as they are now. If we'd had more of a penetrating frost during the winter, then maybe there would be a few more damaged vines, but less pressure for farmers to spray very heavily.
The slight increase in the number of damaged vines from winter frost is something I'd be willing to sacrifice every once in a while to help control the little SOB's, but that's due to the fact that I advocate pruning late and can compensate for some damaged buds here and there.
Mind you, I'm not wishing there was an ice storm like we sometimes see damaging Florida's citrus crops, or the current winter storms we see across most of the rest of the country right now...just a little deeper cold snap back in late December or early January.

There's been more rainfall this year but we're still about 10" short of where we should be
(I'm showing 28.5" so far since July of last year). That usually isn't a problem since March will dump ~7" of rain on average, and April and May both contribute ~2" each to the season's total....but the cold weather is pretty much a memory for this season.

See these posts for more information on the pest threats we collectively face!
2007/03/more-bad-news
2007/02/napa-sharpshooter-alert
2005/04/vigilantes-wanted
2005/04/update-on-sharpshooter-vigilante-post

2007/06/Vine mealybug threat

And here are the IPM websites for each of the pests:
GWSS - sharpshooters
Light Brown Apple Moth
Grapevine Mealybug

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Wednesday, October 17, 2007

Earthworms used to predict earthquakes

This is a great article that really illustrates why we need to ask more questions before jumping to conclusions when presented with new & novel things happening in our vineyards:

"...Wu, who bought the vineyard 40 years ago, said he has never seen so many earthworms in his vineyard before and estimated there were 200 to 300 kilograms of them. Seeing the large numbers of earthworms Wu feared that a major quake might be coming because worms and snakes are known to come to the surface when disturbed by seismic activity.

Wu consulted a farm expert who said the earthworms crawled out because his vineyards were flooded when Typhoon Krosa hit Taiwan on October 5. Although earthworms like humid environment, they cannot stand extreme moisture or when the underground water level rises too high, so they came out of the earth, the expert told Wu.

Wu's worry about an upcoming strong earthquake eased when it was pointed out that another vineyard near Hu's house has not been invaded by earthworms because it was not flooded during the typhoon's passage."

(read the article here @ EARTHTimes.org)

Hmmmm....
Is there any need for me to point out the obvious differences with the resolution of this matter in Taipei and the Biodynamic movement?

(Hint: in Taipei they actually consult REAL experts about the phenomena they experience rather than just making some reason up out of thin air to justify why it should be happening....
The scientific method is still alive!!!!)

Read this article by Dr. Linda Chalker-Scott titled "The Myth of Folklore Gardening"...it seems the folklore in Taipei is as strong as it is here...

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Thursday, June 14, 2007

Vine mealy bug: a serious threat

So undoubtedly you local types caught the Press Democrat's story about the Vine Mealy Bug threat to the wine industry. [link here for those that didn't]

Nasty little creatures!
Not sure what God's intended purpose was in creating them...but then again maybe it was the Devil's work?

Anyway, the part of the article describing the spread of these creatures seemed to be a little understated. Yes they state that it's easy to transfer the little buggers around by wind on leaves, but it's really much worse than that sounds: they can be spread by every vector imaginable!
Using the same tractor on multiple blocks or vineyards can spread them due to their stickiness...
The same is true of your vineyard workers...
all their equipment and clothing...
even perhaps their cars which were parked nearby...
the picking bins used to ferry the fruit to winery...
and every piece of winery equipment which has come into contact with that fruit as well...

But that's not all. The pomace after you've pressed is still contaminated as well!

I've seen recommendations to have the pomace after pressing be either returned to the infected vineyard or essentially "kilned" during composting by a certified processor. All equipment was to be disinfected with high pressure washers and soap (food grade) to make sure the bugs are left behind in the vineyard.

And the insecticide regimen once an infestation is identified is no joke.
Bully for those at Spring Mountain for going the extra mile to help develop a less environmentally intrusive method for everyone...it's what's needed to keep any organic grower looking to continue their certifications...
One of the big problems is getting control of the ants which help protect the mealy bugs from predators, so they can use the honeydew produces for food.

(It's story time, Kids! Do you remember some time ago, a North Bay County tried to use a compulsory reporting, quarantine and eradication program. What was fascinating about this was the fact that reports of the bugs dropped nearly to zero due to the stigma and work associated with an outbreak. No, the bugs weren't defeated...people went underground about the problem, and it went untreated. Sensing this, the "Man" dropped that and made it voluntary to bring people back out of hiding. And you know what?... it seems to be working, and there may be a happy ending to it all...
Moral: help people without punishing them for something which isn't their fault...)

Regarding Spring Mountain, the only thing it seems they didn't mention in the article was the use of Assistance Dogs to sniff out the (oft) unseen early infestations of vine mealy bugs before they get fully established. Google that topic for some cutting edge news.
Hopefully they're using that tool as well to help curb any spread...

A few links to get more information:
UCD Vine Mealy Bug IPM page
Vine Mealybug and Soft Systemics
Managing Vine Mealybug, Keys to Recognition
Dogs With a Nose For Mealybugs (Wall Street Journal : subscription needed)

And finally, since they mention Falcon Crest, an easy trivia question: What was the fictional family's name of Falcon Crest?

Was it too easy?
Then try naming the real-life wine family which was the inspiration for the series...
Good luck!

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Monday, March 26, 2007

Sustainability

Many people are waving the flag of sustainable agriculture these days. In particular, we hear it mentioned more & more often in regards to viticulture and wine production.

But what exactly does it mean, and how does it shape our agricultural practices?


"It's easy to understand why key individuals and organizations in agriculture have flocked to this term. After all, who would advocate a 'non-sustainable agriculture?'" [Charles A. Francis, "Sustainable Agriculture: Myths and Realities," Journal of Sustainable Agriculture (1990) 1(1): p.97].
Sustainable Agriculture: Definitions and Terms

Rightly observed seventeen years ago, the allure of the term alone makes it something which most people would assume is a good thing without asking what it entails. Note that I’m not knocking it – in fact the ideal of the sustainable philosophy is something we should all strive for - but this subject needs a little more light on it, as Biodynamic producers (and some media advocates of BioD) continue to claim that they practice the most sustainable form of agriculture. An interesting claim to make when decades of studies have merely reinforced the notion that the organic foundation of biodynamics is what makes it effective, and not the preparations, the “cosmoculture”, nor the celestial calendars they use. Perhaps they are making that claim based solely on BioD’s prohibition of all pesticides? even the naturally occurring ones? Hmmmm…..

Unfortunately, the concept of sustainable agriculture is somewhat nebulous – even 15 years after the NGO Sustainable Agriculture Treaty of 1992. But the majority of definitions seem to agree on a few core topics:

§ Reduce use of synthetic agrochemicals
§ Reduce the risk of waterway pollution
§ Conserving natural resources and energy
§ Promote responsible use of fertilizers and pesticides
§ Minimize environmental impacts of agriculture

After that, definitions start to vary quite a bit. And nowhere in the mainstream definitions do we see a prohibition of all fertilizers or pesticides. Why?

Here’s a list of what we see on the major points:

Interesting, eh? Note that Sustainable and Conventional are identical in that there isn’t anything actually prohibited as far as sources of agricultural inputs. IPM (Integrated Pest Management) isn’t prohibited either by any of the three systems, or by the Sustainable philosophy (except where the use of pesticides would be prohibited under the system in question).

But perhaps a few working definitions of the three systems are in order…

CONVENTIONAL

This is the standard 20th century agriculture. Nothing (originally) was prohibited form being used, and over time laws were put in place to prevent the greatest threats from products that later turned out to be too broad-spectrum or too long-lasting.

Much maligned for early abuses, the system as a whole also suffers from public perceptions that it’s the cause of such environmental damages as waterway and stream pollution from pesticides, fertilizers, and “factory farm” waste runoff. While the indiscriminant use of synthetic pesticides and herbicides HAS been a contributor to this problem, the “factory farm” (e.g., large concentrated feedlots with poor sanitation and living conditions for the animals in general) is wrongly attributed in the public eye solely to Conventional Ag.

While I believe that those runoff and living condition problems are very real, they represent an extreme of the conventional ideology which has largely been exploited by bigger farming operations. This of course, is the crux of the objection to Conventional Ag, as concerned people point out the need for farms to be profitable and the (potentially) large amounts of capital spent for those synthetic pesticides and fertilizers – a need to grow the operation and maximize the return by using a larger scale (the much dreaded “scale of economy”). The Government has been somewhat successful at combating those problems, but they haven’t been eliminated yet.

As for pesticide residues, they are regulated by the Government (FDA) and those limits should represent a fair consensus of what research has shown to be safe. Still, objections are made appealing to the paranoia (perhaps correctly) that big business interests have somehow corrupted the system at the consumers’ expense.

ORGANIC

Improving on the Conventional perspective, Organic eliminates the reliance on synthetic chemicals, and substitutes a more holistic view of the farm within its environment.

As such, runoff from synthetic chemicals is essentially eliminated. But note that runoff problems (erosion, manure, etc) may still exist.

With a reliance on compost, crop rotation, and better tilling practices, Organic provides the best system to date which balances the need for production and environmental preservation. Naturally occurring pesticides (B.thuringenesis, rotenone, etc) and fertilizers (compost, guano, etc) can still be used. This allows the farmers some protection from pests without the reliance on synthetic chemistry and hopefully a more specific effect. Pesticide residues are still regulated by the Government.

More flavorful food is one of the effects most touted by the Organic quarter, though some research has shown the improved flavor may be due more to the “local” nature of most organic production to date. Generally the produce isn’t shipped as far, and is consumed before too much time has elapsed since picking. As more large farms are converting to Organic, the hardcore natural (“Green”) movement is decrying this as an attempt by big business to cash in on (and corrupt) a good idea. However, I would wonder out loud if perhaps that scenario isn't such a bad thing after all...

...unless of course they are forming large “factory farms” (e.g., large concentrated feedlots with poor sanitation and living conditions for the animals in general) where overcrowding and other factors produce waste runoff which pollutes waterways or otherwise unnecessarily degrades the environment...etc.

BIODYNAMIC

Eschewing all natural and synthetic fertilizers and pesticides, Biodynamic (BioD) relies on a cosmic philosophy to keep pests at bay and fertility at its peak. Created by Rudolf Steiner in 1923, the system has taken many years to reach it's current acceptance but still struggles with the same issues of clarity and logical idea flow that hindered it when first revealed. That being said, the agricultural base is that of Organic, when stripped of all of the cosmic trappings.

Personally, I think any system which totally prohibits any fertilizers or pesticides – even naturally occurring ones – is myopic at best. With a constantly increasing world population, this civilization we have is more prone than ever to ravages brought about by drought, failed harvests, insect pressures, or even just reduced yields in one geographic location or another. And while the utopian dream of having a world free of any manipulation is admirable, it is not remotely realistic…not without putting all of Humanity at great risk. (Don't even get me started about the potential curveballs that global warming could throw us to exacerbate our sometimes tenuous existence...)

BioD’s main tenet is exactly that, and makes it unacceptably naïve from a long-term perspective (all of its other naïveté aside). Another thought about limitations brought about by adopting BioD is that “[s]ustainable agriculture does not mean a return to either the low yields or poor farmers that characterized the 19th century. Rather, sustainability builds on current agricultural achievements, adopting a sophisticated approach that can maintain high yields and farm profits without undermining the resources on which agriculture depends.” (Union of Concerned Scientists, 1999 – see link)

With BioD’s possibly erroneous emphasis on low yields (see my yields-quality post), one has to wonder where it will possibly put us if it were adopted across agriculture as a whole. Would there be a lower profit margin for farmers as they have less produce to sell, and higher prices for consumers? That’s something which could cripple emerging countries as well as condemn them to endless cycles of starvation…and would the current position that irrigation is taboo also hurt us with the possible changing weather brought about by global warming? (Point in fact, Steiner never prohibits higher yields in his agriculture lectures, he merely prohibits achieving them via modern fertilizers…
He also never prohibits irrigation. In fact, I don’t recall him ever mentioning it at all in his lectures. But somehow the modernized application of BioD adopts low yields and dry farming as signatures, at the very least within context of the viticultural movement. Another late addition to BioD is the prohibition of GMO’s, which again Steiner never envisioned.)

In the end, BioD is no guarantee that the system won't be applied on such a large scale as to produce some of the same problems that any "factory farm" might produce. And lastly, any system can cause runoff problems from improper fertilization or manure storage...

Where SUSTAINABILITY fits in...

Sustainability offers something flexible enough to be used in both the developed and emerging worlds: adaptability to various social and economic pressures while promoting well thought out usage and minimal long term effects.

All agriculture is in some way an invasive and destructive act, even while it creates food and textiles for our civilization. And that includes BioD agriculture (the very thing it proposes to promote is somehow lost when we extrapolate to its logical end).

Sustainable philosophy doesn’t lead to artificially low yields, overly high prices for consumers, or to starvation of the farmers. What the Sustainable philosophy preaches is responsible use of resources in our drive for production, while striving for an equitable exchange of goods - regardless of farming system employed.

From that platform, one can start to make some reasoned decisions about what practices to use that will allow the best protections of the environment without placing modern civilization in peril.

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Arm yourselves with knowledge! Read more here:

USDA: Sustainability publications list

The Wine Institute : Sustainability values statement

The Wine Institute : Benefits of Sustainability

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