Wednesday, February 01, 2006

Redwoods and mineral notes...

Mendocino County's growing reputation (pun intended - though it was weak) for premium wine grapes will be boosted this year by higher acid levels than normal.
























Couple that with the affordable land they have (at the moment) and you have a rather attractive area for the next 'hot' wine appelation in California. And maybe it's that Mendocino's somewhat a late arrival, wineries really started popping up there in the mid 1970's I think, but also that laid-back feeling the county exudes...even more so than Sonoma County (especially relative to the feeling that one gets in Napa). That they have enacted one of those goofy anti-GMO bans is indicative of many of the ex-hippies who still live up there, as well as a vociferous (as well as some who are slightly militant) number of eco-concerned citizens. Hopefully the odd mix which is Mendocino will have the ability to guide the wine industry of their area towards land use which supports tourism, commerce and their environment...

The fact that vintners are looking to expand the industry up there is already causing some concern among the residents. I wish both sides good luck in finding compromises to their wishes.

Anyway, it's a land of towering redwoods, beautiful ocean vistas, sharp ridges, and wonderful mineral notes. After malic fermentation this year there should be plenty of that signature 'mineral' character and 'gravelly texture' for everyone to enjoy. The few Anderson Valley Chards (~15) from the '05 vintage that I've been invited to taste so far have the makings of yet another great vintage for them.

I think the Anderson Valley is best for Pinot, Chards & some other white wines, but is still searching for its own signature wine (Chard?). Mendocino County has a growers and vintners coalition to help promote the region, and strive to make the best wines they can and try to elevate Mendocino's reputation even further. I hear that some of their members even are making reserve bottlings that command prices of around $40/btl. Not too shabby...

The Ukiah and Willits areas do have more Cab, Merlot and Zin grapes than the Anderson Valley/Navarro river watershed does, and rightly so – the Anderson Valley tends to be much colder and more suited to Pinot & white grapes. To the North of Ukiah, Potter and Redwood Valleys also produce very good Pinot, and some very nice Sauv Blanc as well, but again tend to be much cooler than Ukiah or Hopland.
And the Ukiah plain has some wonderful old vine Zin and Carignane still being farmed, and makes a wonderful zin in the older ‘California Bordeaux’ (cringe) style. Not being as hot as Lodi or Napa, nor Sonoma’s Dry Creek, it allows for higher acids in the Zinfandels much like the Russian River AVA, while retaining moisture for fewer raisins than hotter areas (always seems to be a problem for zinfandel vines due to it’s wild flowering habits).

-BUT It's NOT the Soil!-
I have a bet going on right now to see how many wine writers make the mistake of declaring the wines "show more terroir this year" and falsely ascribe the mineral notes to the soils of the region...
An ancillary bet is to see which wineries then jump on the wagon, and further perpetuate that myth...

Time will tell if I win or not. A surf & turf dinner is on the line with my choice of wines to accompany it...something tells me this one's in the bag.



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2 Comments:

Blogger Tom said...

Huge,
Are you referring to all of Mendocino County, or just the Anderson Valley. The latter certainly is best suited for Pinot, Chard and Riesling. The inner part of the County, around Hopland, is a different story it seems.

February 01, 2006 12:14 PM  
Blogger St. Vini said...

uhhm....thanks Tom, I should've spent a bit more time looking over that one before I shot it into the void.
I was thinking of Mendocino as a whole and typing fast to make an appointment this morning...not a good combo as my second draft posted and I didn't have time to make sure it flowed properly.

I was flying so fast I even reverted to the Huge moniker...
mea culpa
...it's corrected now, lesson learned...

Vini

February 01, 2006 3:56 PM  

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